My Big, Bad Greek Adventure

After seeing “Shirley Valentine,” I put visiting the Greek Islands got on my “bucket list.”

I finally did it. A mere three weeks ago, I returned from a 12-day cruise to  Turkey, Greece, and a few of the Greek Islands including Izmir, Patmos, Mykonos, Santorini, Crete and Kusadasi.

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This was my first cruise and I was impressed. The boat held 1000 people and 300 staff, small by some cruise ship standards, which was a good thing. We could all find each other. Our rooms were not cramped; we had a large window with a gorgeous view, of course, and space to move. Marvelous food – I never made it to the ice cream bar or pasta bar. I did, however, find the sports bar and casino.

While I prefer a more independent experience, I know that there was no way, unless Onassis gave me his plane, that I could have seen all the magnificent sights I visited.

We began our tour with two days in Athens where we climbed a hill and toured the Acropolis and the Parthenon. We learned nothing in Athens can be higher than this revered site. To think that these ancient structures had survived since 650-480 BC, albeit with some rebuilding due to numerous battles, made me wonder why our culture seems so intent on “redeveloping.”

 Of course, we couldn’t leave Athens without shopping, so our director sent us to Plaka, (also known as “Old Town), where we walked through blocks and blocks of shops crammed with t-shirts, harem dresses, jewelry, some with questionable origins, and gelato shops, all with employees trying to entice us to buy. 

Maybe it was just the newness of being there, but none of us were ready to part with our Euros just yet.

I must add that I was impressed with the Greek way of dealing with dogs and cats. During our tour of Athens, we saw dogs everywhere. Just lying around on the steps of the ruins, in shop doorways, outside restaurants, and they all had collars. We learned from our guide that the city of Athens takes care of these dogs. They are neutered, given their shots, and let loose. They know where to get their food, plus most of the residents feed them. 

Same thing with cats and dogs on the islands. The residents feed them and let them go on their merry way, not procreating. I don't think they'll run out soon, though. And this seems to me to be very civilized. 

On our first evening in Athens, we set out to find a “local” restaurant, and happened upon a Greek buffet that looked and smelled wonderful. Of course, no one spoke English, but no matter. We ordered up and all was delicious– except for one thing. I asked what one particular dish was and the little Greek lady said “goat fisk!” (I may not have this spelling right. Google didn’t help). And she was proud of it.

I had eaten goat before in the Caribbean and found it not so bad, but I just wasn’t in the mood that evening. No matter. As far as the little old lady was concerned, nothing would do but that we try this dish and she proudly bore a plate to our table. The two vegetarians in our group said no. My friend passed it right on to me and I took a bite. Never have I come so close to retching in the presence of others. I grabbed the napkin, ridded the ghastly chunk, and began swilling the local beer, anything to kill the taste. 

 Later, we asked our tour guide what was “goat fisk.” He laughed – told me it was “goat CHEEK.”  If your taste runs to meat that has set in the sun for five days, then this is the dish for you. 

That was the first event.

The second was taking the advice of a friend who said “the patch” would stave off motion sickness. So, per instructions, 12 hours before leaving, I slapped on the patch. I awoke the next morning thinking the goat fisk was coming back to haunt me.  Tearing off the patch, I downed a couple of Sprites, which held me in good stead until I reached the cabin where a quick nap solved that problem.  Note to travelers – try the pressure bands. They worked for me. 

The third glitch happened when we were touring the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. This gorgeous edifice is a 6th century church converted to a mosque in the 15th century, and is now a museum.  Our group was among hundreds there, and, as usual, I was lagging behind. I stopped to snap a picture of the altar, and when I turned, my group was gone.

There I was – amidst a crowd of 800, none of whom spoke English.  I tried to convey my predicament to the Turkish guards who chatted amongst themselves, then disappeared. For 15 minutes (that seemed like 60), I contemplated my fate which included white slavery.

Finally, the guards reappeared and ushered me to the exit where my tour director was frantically waving on the other side of a crowd pushing out the door.

So, as they say, “Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play,” the rest of my trip brought everything I had imagined.

The markets overflowing with multi-colored scarves, bejeweled and beaded bracelets and necklaces, many with “the evil eye,” meant to ward off the evil eye of others, spices, exquisite linens, leather bags and jackets – some good, some not so good. Let the buyer beware.

But, back to the ruins. We saw many, such as Ephesus, founded in the 11th century, on the island of Kusadasi. Ongoing excavations started in 1863 have revealed temples, shops, streets, a theater and churches.  We walked the marble streets where Mark Anthony and Cleopatra were borne atop the shoulders of servants – was that in the movie?  And the communal toilets where statesmen would sit and, ah……and discuss politics. 

On the island of Patmos, we visited the grotto where John the Divine was said to have received a vision of Jesus Christ and wrote the chapter of Revelations. Our guide said that, to many, it was a moving experience. I found it so.

Mykonos and Santorini lived up to my vision of what a Greek island should be. As soon as we disembarked at Mykonos, nothing would do but that I remove my shoes and walk, no-I frolicked, as one should do- in the Mediterranean Sea.  The white washed, blue-shuttered buildings stacked up the hills intersperesed with blue-domed churches, the white in brilliant contrast with the azure sea.

I walked through the narrow streets crowded with merchants and small outdoor cafes, brilliant fuchsia bougainvillea cascading from teeny balconies, cats sunning themselves in the middle of shoppers navigating the walkways, and the smell of dolmades and gyros wafting on the breeze.

Then came Santorini, where parts of “Shirley Valentine” were filmed. I was in heaven, imagining what it would be like living there, sipping a latte while I write on a balcony overlooking the Aegean Sea, or walking down the cobbled streets, my scarf blowing in the island wind. But, then I had to board the bus. So much for that.

As I said earlier, on our first day, we weren’t ready to spend our Euros. However, by the time we reached the islands, we started dropping them like lint, and by the time we had our last day in Athens, we had reached a spending frenzy – spouses, children, friends, third cousins…you get the picture.

 Should you get the chance to see this part of the world, take it. It’s unforgettable. 

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