Zodiac Lives Up To Its History

 For 35 years, grandmothers have been bringing their daughters who then bring their daughters to the Zodiac in Neiman Marcus at Plaza Frontenac. 

Manager Lucy Bommarito said that many people still refer to Zodiac as “the tearoom.” “But,” she adds, “It’s not just a ladies restaurant. We’ve added things to our menu that men enjoy, such as the prime rib sandwich. And some men come here and say we have the best burger in town.”

Tucked away on the second level, one might get the feeling of playing “hooky” from schedules and duties. Diners sit and chat in a room of green and yellow pastels with a mirror collage that catches the light, and sends it dancing to every corner.

So, how has this venerable institution continued to be a “must” of  a Plaza Frontenac shopping experience?

As soon as a customer is seated, a demitasse cup of Neiman Marcus’s homemade chicken broth appears, along with a giant popover and strawberry butter. Breaking into the tender popover, smearing it with the luscious butter, and sipping the broth soothes the diner into a mellow mood. 

Lunch at the Zodiac calls for their signature homemade chicken salad with the mandarin orange soufflé, fresh fruit, and banana nut bread, also homemade ($12.50).

“People know we have great food, a great staff and great service,” Bommarito said. “Our staff has been with us 35 years and knows how to make our customers feel welcome.”

An added bonus is the frequent fashion show when models, in some of Neiman’s finest, glide amongst the tables, pausing to let the diner “oooh” and “ahhh” between bites of banana bread.

Bommarito said that their chef, Dan Stark has worked with the corporate office to enhance their menu with “haute couture,” which is healthy cuisine with a fashionable flair.

Among those new items are the Grilled Lemon Shrimp and Romaine Hearts salad with quinoa, chickpeas, feta, tomato, cucumber, red pepper, and artichokes with a light Greek vinaigrette ($17.00). Another is the Seared Bay of Fundy Salmon with roasted sweet potato, balsamic Brussels sprouts, shiitake mushrooms, leeks, radio and lemon ($17.00). 

“They have come up with new ideas,” she said. “But we’re also able develop our own ideas. So we have some items that are fresh and seasonal,” she said.

Besides the chicken salad, other favorite items are the Maine Jumbo Lump Crab Cake Burger ($17.00), the Tiger Shrimp and Seasonal Vegetable Risotto ($17.00), and Pan Roasted Herb Breast of Chicken ($15.50).

“We order our salmon and lobster on one day, and get it the next at 11 a.m.,” Bommarito said.

For the “Little Shoppers,” the menu has the requisite peanut butter and jelly, chicken fingers and fries, hot dog, and pasta.

Of course, no lunch would be complete with the famous Neiman Marcus Chocolate Chip Cookie ($3). One need not stop there, however. The Chocolate Crème Brûlèe  ($6) or Snicker’s Pie($6) or Carrot Cupcake ($5) provides the perfect ending. And there’s always ice cream, gelato or sorbet($5).

While the Zodiac is open for lunch only, it is available for private evening parties. There is also a private dining room for any occasion.

Sometimes a restaurant with a certain “élan” can turn an everyday lunch into special occasion.

Such is The Zodiac.

Hours: Monday through Saturday - 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday - Noon - 3 p.m. 

Where: 100 Plaza Frontenac, St. Louis, MO 63131

Telephone: 314-994-5050

Website: www.neimanmarcus.com .